Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Traveling Alone In America



Traveling Alone In America

Over many years, as both a child and adult, I have spent a lot of time travelling in different parts of America. Washington, the state not the political entity, Oregon, California, Hawaii, and Nevada. Once I placed an adolescent foot in Arizona as I straddled the border, and a time zone, on the Boulder Dam. It’s always been fun, entertaining, and eye opening. In fact I met one of my first girlfriends on a two week bus tour of California and Nevada. All of those places, and some of the people, from the cities to the mountains to the country fields to the desert, inspired me to write in my personal journal about how each of them affected me.

However, this time the journey was very different. In the twenty four days I was on the road, I passed from the Pacific Northwest coast that is my home in Canada, to the very tip of the southeast point of the Continental United States. That’s a long distance in miles/kilometers, but a very different journey in terms of landscapes, peoples, and cultures. Leaving the lush rainforest of my home, to pass through the mountains and ranch lands of Wyoming and Montana, to the sparseness of the central plains, and down through America’s breadbasket, to the welcoming arms of Kansas City, a surprisingly wonderful Memphis, steamy New Orleans, and the tropical Florida Keys.

Nearly everywhere I stopped the vastness of the land, and the kindness of her people, couldn’t help but strike me as being more than I had hoped, and more than I had expected. Keep this in mind, most people’s sightings of America and her people are on Television shows, through books, and news media, as was mostly mine.

What I found was not the media induced landscape I had been raised to see. America is not as “sick” as their many ads for pharmaceuticals would have you believe. In fact most of the people I had the great honour to deal with looked very healthy, and for the most part happy. At the very least, America is not a nation under siege. The negative emotional hyperbole of corporate media notwithstanding, America seems to do quite well in its day to day life.
The Wyoming and Montana “Territories” were huge, empty landscapes that spoke of cruel winters, and tough lives. The gates that could be lowered across the highway during winter storms were a sobering reminder that people can easily get lost and not be found until spring, even on a four lane Interstate highway. The South Dakota and Iowa landscapes of farms and the long distances between settlements spoke volumes to me about hardiness, and lives lived with a vast difference to my suburban upbringing. My playmates lived next door, or down a paved street. Here the nearest neighbours are miles away down dirt roads in summer, and heaven knows what in winter. This is an isolating land for her people, and I came to have what can only be described as an outsider’s glimpse of why this part of the country has so many individualists. They can’t rely on “others” as we in the cities might, for “others” are too far away. In this part of the big country something as simple as an ambulance or fire truck can be many miles away.

In that realization comes a perspective about the difference of perspectives. On the gun issue alone one can see a need for protection in a land that very much would like to kill you. It’s nothing personal as it would be with people, it’s more the universe couldn’t really care if you are on the land or not. The land was here before, and will be long after. The food chain of the native creatures themselves insist on surviving, even if they threaten man’s endeavours to conquer the land, the coyotes, and bears, and snakes, will have their toll. The urban/rural divide raises its head. I myself come down on both sides of the issue, but I think if the zealots who scream their views at each other were to come and sit in each other’s chairs for a few days; the discussion might progress in a very different and civil manner.

The unexpected wonders I found in Kansas City. A staggeringly huge war memorial, the renovated beauty of Union Station, a museum dedicated to a musical form I have long loved, and a baseball museum that brought home the unexpected emotion of just what the staggering cost of institutionalized racism really means, and it sobered me.

Memphis brought me face to face with a musician I had loved since childhood. Not in the extreme “fan” way, but more as a symbol of a boyhood longing of wanting to be able to sing the way he sang. To spend a few moments thinking of a friend, now lost to us, who loved the music with all his great big heart. To have a massive plate of ribs that defies my ability to describe, and to have a burger and a beer in the blues club of a master. To get a hand car wash in a neighbourhood where I felt out of place by my colour, but was by no means uncomfortable. The people were kind and friendly, and in many ways knowing. With sadness I missed a museum that I very much wanted to visit. I wanted more context of the civil rights struggle, but they’re closed on Tuesday.

New Orleans was more a delight than a disappointment. The seedy and tacky frat party atmosphere on Bourbon Street, gave way to the wonderful galleries of Royal Street. A morning walk through the French Quarter showed me more than I could have seen had I gone in the evening when the streets would have been crowded with revellers. The food of the Quarter was sublime, and the wonderful beignets and café au lait at Café Du Monde will always define such things for me. I have to go back for more. Their coffee might be available by mail order, but not the experience of the icing sugar and the humidity.

Having the opportunity to view the Great Plains, the Continental Divide, the Ozarks, the Gulf of Mexico, Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse, Little Big Horn, the aviation museums, Graceland, and even Wall Drug, left me with a feeling that iconic America still lives.

This was a road trip taken alone. The reasons are many and personal, and they will mostly stay that way. When I got home I felt lighter. Some of the many “grets” and regrets of my life had been silently dealt with while I quietly steered the car. 

For those of you who might wonder about the difference between a “gret” and a regret, it is this. A “gret” is a negative thought or emotion that you have forgotten, or intentionally didn’t want to deal with. That “something” whether it’s an unreturned phone call, a bill payment, a badly dealt with relationship breakup, or having said something you didn’t mean but that came out of your mouth anyway, or conversely saying the wrong thing to cover a very real thing. A “regret” is when you have that same thought or feeling over and over. Your own quiet guilt trip. Whichever they might be, or what they become, they all hang like little one ounce weights on your soul and you carry them with you, always, until you get some subconscious time and distance to let them deal with you. We all carry our own share of grets and regrets. They are a part of what helps to make us human. If you don’t have them you are either lying to yourself, or need professional help.

When I returned from this trip I didn’t have the chance to properly process all I had learned, seen, experienced, and felt. Within a couple of days I rushed back to work in what would turn out to be the most horrendous year of my many years of employment. A management change can have the most unforeseen results when you move from a collaborative and mostly inclusive style, to an arrogant dictatorship. It would culminate in my eventual retirement. A move that was made more to save my life, to seek long term treatment for high blood pressure (190/90) on the day I left work) brought on by dealing with vicious and small minded arrogance more than anything else.

That is why I am so long in finishing up the story of the cross country journey. I used to laugh off the idea of “being in the wrong head space”, but I get it now.
My personal journeys can now continue, but at a different pace, and in different ways. I can now devote more time to the importance of having a life itself, rather than the life of racing towards imposed deadlines that, in retrospect, really meant less than nothing. 

So this life changing road journey is done, but there will be more. I can’t help myself. My life has always been a big adventure. Even going to the grocery store can be an adventure, if you look at it as more than a chore.
Enjoy the day, and stay tuned, the best is yet to be written!


Destination: Home - Travel Day: September 29



Destination: Home

Travel Day: September 29

I am up and westbound on I-90 by 7. Today’s plan is to make the drive to Seattle. I want to spend the afternoon playing tourist, and the night having a nice dinner, and then have a very short drive home early tomorrow. Because today is Saturday the mid-afternoon border lineups will be horrendous. Canadians who insist on buying in Bellingham because things are cheaper there, and then waste the rest of the weekend burning away gas, and a great deal of their lives in border waits. Sometimes the wait can be three hours long. And then some of them have the nerve to complain about the reduction in public services at home because of lower tax revenues. Sometimes it’s embarrassing to explain this.

I stop in Ritzville, Washington for a Starbucks Venti Awake Tea, and a fruit and cheese plate. I stopped here on my way out east so I know what waits ahead. I need suitable sustenance to get me across the nightmare boredom that is Eastern Washington.

I stop again at Wild Horses Monument, but on the other side of the highway at a scenic viewpoint overlooking the Columbia River. The air is smoky due to a massive forest fire north east of here. I stretch my legs and take a few pictures. This time there is are no combat jets to buzz me.







I stop to fuel up at place a few miles east of Steven’s Pass. A woman with her family in a Cadillac Escalade approaches me and asks if I know anything about cars? Her “service engine” light is on and she’s concerned about making it through the pass. I’m not mechanically inclined but I have enough of an idea of car maintenance to see if anything stands out as obviously wrong. I do a once around checking oil and transmission fluid, looking for obvious leaks, or anything glaringly out of place but I find nothing. I suggest she go ahead and to take it to her mechanic when she gets home. For all I know her catalytic converter needs replacing. 

Most of Stevens Pass and the lake are in sunshine but at the summit it’s foggy and raining. This follows me all the way down until I’m at the Seattle city limits. The clouds scatter into what we coastal types call “sunny breaks”, but in reality they are breaks between rain showers. As I fight my way through weekend commuter traffic I run a few scenarios through my head about staying in Seattle or pushing on home. Finally I decide and it’s 1145. If the universe is on my side, with modest border waits, I can be home by 1530. The sudden allure of sleeping in my own bed guides my thinking. I have been on the road, by myself, for twenty four days, and suddenly I just want to be home. The Saturday burger special at the pub around the corner helps to swing the vote. Their custom brewed Honey Pilsner calls to me!

There is only a forty minute wait at the border as I pull up at 1425. At 1510 I’m cleared to cross with only a minimal of questioning. Other than the usual ones for a single person driving alone to south Florida, the border agent asks me if I understand why she’s asking if anybody else had access to my car, and I say I do. The questions are expected. Of course she also asks “Why I did it?”. The answer? Because it was the right car, the right amount of money, and the right time to live out a dream. My dream!

I'm nearly home but I stop to pick up some beer and basic groceries to get me through breakfast. My fridge will be empty of everything but ketchup, mustard, A-1, and sweet green relish. 

I park the car in its customary space at 1600, all done.

All told it has been 24 days on the road, a roundtrip of 7768 miles, or 12502 kilometres. The car averaged a fuel consumption of 8.5 liters per 100 kilometres. Not a great fuel figure, but better than I had hoped.

I unload the car and open up my apartment. There are no obnoxious odors, just stale air. I plug everything back in, turn the water on, flick a few breakers, and throw in a load of laundry just to make sure everything is clean before I put the travel clothes away. I leave the windows open, lock the front door, and walk around the corner to the pub where a burger and finally, a truly local brew beer, await.


Destination: Coeur D'Alene, Idaho - Travel Day: September 28, 2012


Destination: Coeur D'Alene, Idaho

Travel Day: September 28, 2012



It’s cold as I walk across the dark parking lot to the motel coffee shop for breakfast, but I remind myself it’s high mountain country in late September. It’s also 0615. The place is empty so service is quick, and by 7 I am westbound in the brightening day.


Keeping in mind the long distances between service stops in Montana I fuel up before I leave Billings, and again a couple of hours later in a place called Livingston. Livingston is the kind of place where the gas station coffee is hot, though barely drinkable, and the street into town is lined with feed stores and the architectural bric a brac found only in places that don’t really feel the need to create a “pretty town site”.  I am humbled to see such places still exist.

At 1340 I stop in Missoula to get gas but my card is refused so I pay cash. A few minutes later I’m standing outside a McDonalds chomping on a couple of cheeseburgers and sipping a root beer, and wondering why the high school aged kids aren’t in school.


Montana gently gives way to some spectacular Idaho mountains. Tonight’s stop is in Coeur D’Alene, Idaho and I pull off I-90 at the appropriate exit around 1430 to fuel up for the next day. My card is again refused so I go inside to see the clerk. He tells me that the credit card company has flagged my card for being used in an automated way more than three times in twenty four hours, and they want the clerk to see me in person. Good to know, so he authorizes my card. I ask the clerk if there is a car wash close by and he directs me to an automated place a few blocks over. I drive by it three times before I find it. It’s an automated wash but I have to dry by hand. The unit’s dryers didn’t do that good a job.


I stop at a hole in the wall liquor store behind another gas station to see if they have any Plymouth gin, but I’m out of luck. What they do have is the other gin I have been seeking for most of my adult life, Boodles!!! Finally a bottle of Boodles!!! This whole trip has been about finding so many unexpected things. First the Plymouth in Key West, and now my personal holy grail of alcohol, Boodles! Something I was told wasn’t imported anymore. So how do you feel when something totally unexpected happens like that? I’ve always been fond of the term “gobsmacked”!


I check into the Motel 6, pay for internet access, and check out the room. It’s one of the newly renovated rooms, so I’m quite pleased. I head down to the laundry room to get some clothes done. I only have a couple of days left on the road but I don’t feel like doing them in the sink.


The desk clerk tells me of a few dinner options, but I settle on the Texas Roadhouse a few blocks away. The food at the one in St. Charles was quite good, though I hold out small hope that my server will be as funny and intelligent as Sam I Am. The place is crowded at 1815 with Friday night families and groups, so I sit at the bar with no waiting. I order a Drop Top Ale and the Prime Rib with a baked potato. I listen to the servers chatting behind the bar. Some of them are going to cosmetology school. I spend a few moments pondering what the job market is like for cosmetologists in Idaho.


I finish up what turns out to be a really decent Prime Rib and head back for a decent night’s sleep. Before I turn in I indulge in a small glass of Boodle’s over ice and think how sublime is my life that in the past 23 days I have had the privilege to travel so freely across such a large land mass. 

Destination: Billings Montana, via Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Monument, and Little Big Horn Battlefield National Monument



Destination: Billings Montana, via Mt. Rushmore, Crazy Horse Monument, and Little Big Horn Battlefield National Monument

Travel Day: September 27, 2012

I’m up early, well before 6. By 630 I’m outside a place that serves breakfast, but it’s closed. The sign say it opens at 7, but it’s still not open even then, so I stand around and feel the morning. It’s a bit chilly, but not even close to being cold. A true mountain morning in the early fall. It’s quiet, but no real sound other than a blanketed, muted softness to everything.


Eventually someone comes along and opens up. I order a quick breakfast of eggs and sausage. My server is from the northern Midwest, but he knows of my hometown. He was in town the night of the big hockey riot the year before, but he said that didn’t color his appreciation of how pretty the place is. And he said we have good beer!


I leave Keystone at 8 to head for Mt Rushmore. Keystone is not a place I’ll miss very much.


Mt. Rushmore is an iconic American wonder. The visual presentation of four of the country’s most legendary leaders and thinkers, is respectful and honorable. Though I can’t help but think of the many times I have seen it mocked on TV and in movies, and humorous as it may have seemed at the time I’m not sure I would find it so now. One of the things I had heard most often about the sculpture from people who had seen it was how small it really was. 





After seeing it for myself I thought the same thing until I took a moment. Such inflated expectations really come from within ourselves because we expect something so big in our minds to be just that much bigger. 





In my day to day work I hear that about some of the people I deal with from both politics and show business. When I took another look at the mountain, I found the proportion to be just right in relation to the size of the cliffside palette the artist worked with.


As I sat there for a few minutes I also realized how America’s Natioanl Parks and Monuments are great social equalizers. Everyone has pretty much the same experience, they come to have a similar understanding of the history, and it didn’t matter how if they came in a bus or a Cadillac or a beat up Honda. They all came to see the same thing, and in that they share a common experience.


I leave Mt. Rushmore around 9, and I’m a bit subdued by the experience. I stop on my way out to stare out at the Black Hills in the gathering morning light, and find I'm becoming aware of the land itself. I make a quick stop just around the corner and take a picture of George Washington’s profile at a roadside pullout.





I become more and more aware of something within myself that is being, well talked to is the wrong word for it, but I am aware of a “something”. Whatever music I try to put on is just “wrong” for the nature of what I’m seeing and feeling. So I make do with XMSirius’ Spa Channel, but it’s still not right.





At 0925 I make the turn off the Highway to the Crazy Horse Monument. Crazy Horse Monument is an attempt, on a very large scale, to depict First Nation leader Crazy Horse on his horse, out of the side of a mountain. Where I had expected the sculpture at Mt. Rushmore to be bigger, I wasn’t prepared for just how big Crazy Horse is going to be when it’s finished. Much larger than Mt. Rushmore, by a factor of about ten!








There is a very informative First Nations Museum attached to the Crazy Horse viewing platform, though I wish it had a more tribal context in it’s information cards. In the gift shop I hear some quiet flute music playing, and I buy a CD called “Song Of The Aspen” by Bryan Akipa. I play it over and over throughout the day. I have finally found the music that fits my “mind mood”. There is something profoundly spiritual about this place. These Black Hills are truly a gift, but there is also something magical here, as if this is a place where all hearts and spirits once lived. 


At 1015 I’m back on Hwy 16 heading south to Custer where I’ll turn west and follow Hwy 16 northwest until I intersect with I-90. From there it’s again west to stop at Little Big Horn Battlefield National Monument, and then into Billings, Montana for the day.


The two lane road curves and winds its way through quiet and lightly forested mountain valleys, and except for a few other vehicles I have the road to myself. I make a couple of stops to take pictures, and one to read about a major forest fire that swept through a few years back.





I make a stop to take a picture of a sign about a Civilian Conservation Corps camp that was in the area during the Great Depression. I’m impressed, but the cows that are watching me seem entirely bored.





For the third time this trip I leave a place saddened. Not because of the place itself, the sadness is in the leaving. In this case not because of not having seen enough, but because I haven’t “felt enough” of the Black Hills.


At 1120 I stop at an information sign at a pullout. It signifies the importance of the Cheyenne to Deadwood stage coach line. There is a restored coach that ran this route at the Crazy Horse Museum. The air smells very much like “country” is supposed to smell, like an outside barn.





I press on, driving along what has to be the loneliest stretch of road I have ever encountered. The scrubgrass prairie just goes on for miles and miles, I rarely encounter another vehicle, see no buildings, other than crumpled line shacks, and I don’t even see a cow. 





I see some small dead animals at the side of the road, but that’s it. And the sky begins to get high cloud, and it becomes a slight dirty green color. As driving experiences go, and I’ve had a few, it’s thoroughly surreal.


I make a quick gas stop at a place called Moorcroft, Wyoming at 1230. It seems the gas station is a popular spot, which in a town of a thousand people says something. I’m kidding, most of the plates were from out of state, and a lot of the people seemed to be as road dazed as I was.


Two hours later it’s a pit stop and a fuel up in Sheridan Wyoming. I used this place on my drive out. There are no attendants, just pull in, swipe your card, and pump away. And so I do. I actually wouldn’t mention it at all except an unattended gas station right next to a motel just seems weird.


Arriving at the Little Big Horn Battlefield National Monument is a sombre experience. Unlike Mt. Rushmore which is a celebration of intellect, and positive achievement, Little Big Horn is the exact opposite. I am unprepared for what I’m going to find here.








The battle that occurred here is one focal point of history’s fickleness of who “wins”. The real truth of this place is that a lot of people died in a very short period of time and you can feel them here. Just as you can in any place where a large group of human lives violently ended. I have felt the same thing when I have visited European battlefields. I would like to think we make these places in “historic places of interest” so that we can get to feel this way. As if the dead are shaming, and teaching, us not to do it again. But we do, usually at the hands of arrogant and egocentric idiots.





As usual I learned a lot of things I didn’t know. Like the makeup of the 7th Cavalry, and that the infantry troops were mostly unemployed immigrants to America. Three squares and a cot, in exchange for your services. I learned more about the Sioux Wars, and it gave me more context to the underlying conflicts.

Outside, I quietly wandered through the grave markers, mentally taking notes of names and dates. Not that any of the people buried here have any link to me, but beyond the names and dates are real people, and real people died here. One of those gravestones simply reads, “Chippewa Indian Woman”. I am saddened to read such simple wording, and somehow in a personally bewildering but grateful way, that someone saw fit to at least mark her place.





Custer isn’t buried here, though there is a marker (the one marked with black)for where he fell on the battlefield. After a few years they exhumed his body and re interred it at West Point Military Academy. Not so for the rest of his men, who either lay where they fell, or are in the graveyard a couple of hundred meters away.





There is also a monument to the Cavalry horses that fell.





In the Interpretive Centre I learn that a grass fire a few years back burned away a lot of cover, allowing battlefield archeologists to recover even more artifacts after they thought they had all they were going to find. Using the newly found items as a guide, they managed to build a more comprehensive and effective map of how the battle unfolded.





There are a lot of signs around telling you to watch out for snakes and to stay on the paths. Some people don’t get the message and I watch a young woman in flip flops walk through the grass to get a family picture next to a fence. Me, I’m hyper vigilant!!!


Written on the side of the Interpretive Centre is a pearl of wisdom that speaks volumes of the differences in the philosophies at play here.





I am not entirely unhappy to be leaving. This place is an emotional and intellectual challenge for me. As monotone as the land is around the battlefield, there still grows some color as fall trees blaze in oranges and yellows.




I make the short drive into Billings. I’m staying at the Dude Rancher Lodge in downtown Billings. It’s a true throwback to roadside motels. After checking in I walk a few blocks over to the Montana Brewing Company. It’s a bar, but at least is has some local options. I settle on a MBC Pale Ale. Not at all bad, when paired with the Chicken Alfredo. My server is Kelsey, and she’s bright and cheerful. Just the kind of person I need after today.