Destination: Kansas City

I can honestly say I won't miss Sioux Falls.

The hotel had noisy plumbing and I have no idea what was going on upstairs, but I figure it had something to do with elephants and gypsies. I sleep very badly.

I leave Sioux Falls after complimentary “Continental” breakfast of an English muffin and strawberry jam and what passes for tea.

By 715 I am back onto I-29 which will take me all the way to Kansas City. The drive down out of South Dakota is flat for a lot of the way. This picture should give you an idea.

By the time I have passed through Iowa into Nebraska there is bit more green than brown, and the trees are definitely closer together. Passing into Missouri makes the transformation complete. Now there are real hills. I can tell because the Cruise Control has to kick down a gear to keep me at the 70mph speed limit. For the most part the speed limit has been 75 all the way until Iowa when it drops to 65, then in Missouri it's back up to 70.

I stop at a rest area in Iowa and find the pattern of bathrooms has changed. As I remember the previous rest areas over the past few days have had the men's room on the right as you go in the door. In Iowa they are on the left. First the speed limit, then the bathroom locations. What's with the contrarian nature of Iowa?

I am in a good humour and a good mood after Iowa. Just south of Omaha I found a Starbucks at the Metro Crossing shopping complex, at Exit 47 off I-29. While I can finally get a Venti Awake tea, I am once more disappointed to not get a fruit and cheese plate, or even a protein plate. This is the first Starbucks I've seen since Missoula.

I am impressed with Missouri. Except for some of the drivers who are displaying big city driving tactics of arrogance and entitlement I am glad to just cruise along to get to Kansas City!

When I was a young boy my father's company had a kid's Christmas party. My gift that year was a record (real vinyl not a CD) of hit's from the 1950's. Fat's Domino's “Kansas City” always stuck in my mind. Especially the bit about “They got some pretty looking women there, and I'm gonna get me one”. That's NOT on the agenda, but keep the song in mind, there's gonna be a test after the drinking and the bar encounter.

I only have the afternoon and Sunday to see the sights of Kansas City. My first stop, one of many as as suggested by my KC tourist resource person, is the Truman Presidential Library and Museum in Independence. I arrive just after 215.

Harry Truman, born right here in Independence, was an American Vice President who was thrust into the job of President upon the sudden death of Franklin D. Roosevelt in early 1945. 

It was his lonely decision to drop the atomic bombs on Nagasaki and Hiroshima. The museum does not shy away from the controversy over that decision. They devote an entire display to it. Quoting every one from Truman himself to the senior Japanese Military officers of the time.

The Truman Museum also show the struggles of the post war era. The economic turmoil of a country returning from war to a consumptive and comfortable society. The struggles with the labour movement as they fought to for decent wages and benefits, against a political machine/business backdrop of monopolism and late 19^th century attitudes.

There is also a look at Truman's civil rights agenda, and how it may have been politically motivated as the Democratic Party splintered into 4, mostly by regional demands and prejudices.

Towards the end of his Presidency Truman also had to face the Communization of China and the Korean War, including a very public spat with his chief General, WW2 hero Douglas MacArthur. Truman lost the Chinese, but won in his spat with the General by reaffirming the Constitutional mandate that civilians are in charge, not the military.

Truman, his wife Bess, daughter Margie and her husband, are all tastefully and simply buried at the Library.

After asking a couple of people who work at the Library I don't get an answer to a question I have always wondered about. One of my favourite quotes about Harry Truman. It involves someone asking Truman ”What's new Harry?”. He is purported to have replied “Only the history I don't know”. Truman was an avid reader of history and biographies, so it doesn't seem all that implausible. I have always loved that quote, whether Truman said it or not. It has been my experience that leaders who don't know history will be best remembered for repeating the failures of others. I found this quote on the wall next to his office.

I leave the beautiful grounds of the Museum and Library at 430 and head downtown to my hotel. I have reserved a double room at the Sheraton Crown Centre. Sheraton, and other Starwood Group properties are among my favourite hotels. I took advantage of a great rate on their website and booked for two nights. Sadly they have lost my reservation. They have done upgrades to the booking system, and somehow lost mine. Fortunately I have my booking number and the quoted rate. The Front Desk Supervisor is perplexed but he helps me get an upgrade to King room at the same rate.

I head out for dinner armed with some ideas from my KC tourist person. The bellman agrees and get's me in cab for Jack Stack BBQ at the Freight Center down in the Crossroads District. A series of renovated rail warehouses have been transformed into a dining area of different restaurants. Trains still frequently roll by, about two blocks away, and I watch them from my patio table.

I order a locally brewed Boulevard Pale Ale, and a full rack of baby backs with pit beans and coleslaw.

The ribs were moist and the flavour of the meat was not dominated by the sauce. The beans were thick and sweet, and the creamy coleslaw was wonderful with a hint of pepper. The beer was thick but not heavy. The bill with tip was a modest $43. By the way Jack's does a huge shipping business.

From Jack's I caught a cab to Scamp's Alley and the Phoenix Jazz Bar (www.thephoenixkc.com). Live music or they're not open.

Tonight a small quartet with a wide ranging vocalist is up. They are loud in such a small place, but from the second note of the first song my foots tapping in time. This where the test come's in, and I ask you “What was the first song of the first set?” if you flub this I suggest you not bother reading the rest. The bar is an open brick and oak place, with ceiling fans with dark, smoky orange leopard print pattern glass shades on the bulbs.

Over a couple Boulevard Pale Ales I enjoy the music, the vocalist, the patrons, some of whom are dancing, but especially watching the antics of the bar staff. I have never seen people have so much fun at the their work, and with each other.

I know you're wondering why I didn't take pictures. I'm not a fool. You don't start taking pictures in a strange bar, loaded with regular patrons, in a strange town. That's a sure fire recipe for curb rash as they bodily throw you out.

It's just after 8 when I leave, under my own power. The door man calls me a cab and we chat a bit in the warm night air until the car arrives. Actually it's a Nissan Xterra. First 4 wheel drive cab I've ever ridden in.

I get back to the hotel, crawl into the Perfect Sleeper bed and read a while before falling into a wonderful sleep.

Sunday I wake up late, nearly 8. I take my time getting ready to go out. In fact it's just after 10 when I wander the two blocks over to Crown Centre. So called because the Hallmark company is headquartered here. Everything in the shopping area is closed, except Einstein Bros. Bagels. So I have egg, cheddar, and bacon on a plain bagel with tea, supposedly tea.

I wander out of there and across the street to Washington Square.

Then over to Union Station, a renovated classical building.

There are numerous exhibits in the station, most notably the Kansas City Science Center, and a model railway exhibit. But they're both closed. The Science Center Gift shop is open, but the Center itself is closed. The Titanic artifacts exhibit is open, but I don't have time.

By the way, it's also still an active train station.

I wander across the street to the Liberty Memorial and the National WW1 Museum. It's impressive in it's size, and grandeur.

I don't go into the Museum. It's pushing noon, and I want to get to the American Jazz Museum and the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum.

I get the car from the valet, with instructions on how to find a car wash. The car has done over 2500km through dusty desert, and plains. It needs some bath time.

After the car wash, I drive the 6 minutes to the Museums. Located side by side at 18^th and Vine. This is the area where most of the “black” people lived back in the day. Recently renovated as a draw for tourist and locals, the area has several bars, restaurants and clubs.

The American Jazz Museum hosts some nice displays, and artifacts. There many educational kiosk of music types, artists, and styles. One section teaches about the various instruments, and sections on harmony and melody. A section of the legacy of the artwork on record album catches my eye, and I see a couple of albums I'd like to own, but are probably long out of print.

There is also a live jazz venue, a bar called The Blue Room. An exhibit by day, a performance venue by night, except on Sundays.

Across the atrium is the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum. It chronicles the struggles, and triumphs, and political fighting around race based sporting leagues up until 1960. I was shocked to see and learn some of the events unfold, and at the same time encouraged by their courage towards acceptance both as people and as a people.

I have no pictures of the exhibits. Photography is not allowed.

I spend a few minutes wandering through the gift shops. I buy some shirts, and some Cd’s. Remember the albums I wanted? The gift shop had two of them, and I also buy a copy of the CD that's playing in the gift shop. It's a recording from some sessions in The Blue Room.

I spend a few minutes out side taking pictures of the street.

Then it's off to my next destination, The City Market. It's like a farmers market, well it is a farmer's market, but it's also a flea market. Open year round, even in Kansas winters. I buy three books (3 for $10) and get into a conversation with the seller. He asks about Quebec Separatists. I give him the basic, 30 second version of the story. That's my trying to fair to both sides version. He also makes reference to the war of 1812.

By now it's nearly 4, and it's time to start thinking about dinner, so I head back to the hotel and let the valet park it. I'll take a cab out to dinner because I think I'll have a cocktail or two.

Tomorrow it's back on the road. Probably another long drive day as I continue my way south.